Rabbits!  


Domestic rabbits (Oryctolagus cuniculus) are members of the lagomorph family, which is very closely related to rodents (those animals that have pronounced front teeth and need to gnaw: mice, gerbils, squirrels, etc).  Domestic rabbits descended from wild rabbits of Western Europe.  For many years, rabbits have been bred in this country for fur, meat, and research.  However, rabbits are now becoming a very popular house pet, especially in big city environments.  Since rabbits never have to be walked, and are most comfortable in a caged environment they adapt perfectly in small homes and apartments.  As the number of rabbits as pets has increased much more rabbit specific information has become available to both owners and vets.  With the advent of special diets, housing environments and increased medical knowledge, veterinarians are able to treat rabbits with as many tools and know-how as dogs and cats.  The veterinarians at Gladstone Animal Clinic are skilled in helping to meet the needs of pet rabbits and can help guide you through owning and taking care of one.

The Rabbit:  Everybody has seen a rabbit either hopping around outside or advertising for the Easter Bunny.  Domestic rabbits are nearly identical in appearance and dietary needs as wild rabbits.  Domestic rabbits can come in a wide variety of breeds and sizes:  Dutch rabbits can be palm size, while Flemish Giants can be larger than a housecat.  Rabbit colors vary from albino (white with red eyes), to brown, black, gray, and spotted varieties.  Different breeds of rabbits can also have variations such as long thick fur with Angora rabbits, or floppy long ears that won't stand in lop-eared rabbits.  No matter what the breed, rabbits are generally similar to care for (though the giant breeds and long haired varieties do have some special needs).
     All rabbits have characteristic long ears to help regulate their body temperature, very muscular hind legs for hopping, and large open rooted front incisors for gnawing.  Rabbits should never be picked up by the ears and should be carried with extreme care.  Rabbits should be carried either be cradled in the arms close to the body, or held around the chest with one hand and the rump supported.  Since rabbits have such powerful rear legs they can literally break their spine by kicking or struggling if they are not well supported.
      Unlike ferrets, rabbits purchased from pet stores usually have not be neutered or spayed; therefore these procedures should be performed by your vet as discussed below.

Rabbit Care: Rabbits have very special feeding and housing requirements that require extra effort on the part of the owner.    Feeding: Rabbits have a very unique digestive system that is nearly identical to that of a horse.  Rabbits (and horses) are known as "hindgut fermenters", which means that instead of the stomach breaking down their food it is done in a very large organ called the cecum.  Grass and pellets eaten by the rabbit are then broken down by bacteria in the cecum.  Once the food is broken down, it is excreted by the rabbit in the form of "night feces".  "Night feces", or cecotrophs, resemble normal rabbit droppings but are actually mucous covered packages of nutrients and vitamins that the rabbit then re-ingests to get even more nourishment from its last meal.  This ingestion of the "night feces" is rarely seen by owners and, indeed,occurs at night.      Because of the rabbit's unique digestive system it is very important that they receive a carefully balanced diet of grass hay, pellets, and vegetables.  Fiber in the form of grass hay helps to ensure good intestinal transit of food (also important in preventing hairballs).  Alfalfa hay is the most easy type of hay to find to feed rabbits but may contain too much calcium and can encourage "sandy urine".  Timothy hay, though a little harder to come by, is likely better for your rabbit's health.  Commercially available rabbit pellets are very important in a rabbit diet, but are by no means enough, and can actually lead to problems if it is the only feed available.  Vegetables are also an important part of the rabbit's daily diet but should be fed in moderation.  Vegetables to be fed include carrot tops, parsley, romaine lettuce, and other greens; icebox lettuce and celery have little nutritional value and should be avoided.  Other rabbit treats can include yogurt, and some fruits.

Fact Sheet Domestic Rabbit Lifespan: 6-10 years Weight: 4-10 pounds Pregnancy: 30 days Traits: Very active -Can gnaw on power cords, furniture, etc Attitude: Timid -Enjoy attention -Can be good with dogs -Can be aggressive if not fixed Diet: Grass hay -Timothy pellets -Veggies daily Housing: Cage with solid floor -Can litter box train -Close monitoring out of cage Vaccines: None available Surgery: Can be Spayed and Neutered -Declawing never recommended

   Housing: During the night and other times when you aren't able to closely monitor your rabbit's whereabouts, the rabbit should be kept in a rabbit cage or hutch   Wire cages work best with a solid tiled floor or other such hard covering.  Wire floors with wood bedding is not a good choice since their hind feet can develop abscesses from the wire.  The cage should be big enough to keep food, a water bottle or heavy water bowl (rabbits will dump water often), litter box (which rabbits will use), and either a sleeping box or large cardboard tube to hide and sleep in (available at pet stores).  A large aquarium is not a good home, since they don't have enough ventilation and trap odors.  Rabbits are very sensitive to heat and their cage shouldn't be in direct sunlight.  Though rabbits can be maintained in a shaded outdoor hutch, indoor rabbits live longer and do better.  Finally, remember to play with your rabbit outside of the cage; rabbits are not like mice or gerbils they should be allowed to run around the house and get exercise, while the hutch is a place to be safe when the rabbit can't be watched.

Rabbit Personality: Rabbits are often very shy and timid around strangers, but can be quite playful and interact with their owners.  Rabbits do not have the loyalty of a dog or the constant curiosity of a ferret, but they are much more active than one would think.  Rabbits do enjoy playing with small toys (cardboard tubes, small cat toys, etc.), but they aren't usually the type of pet to learn commands or become leash trained (however, some rabbits will tolerate a leash and harness when brought to the vet).  Rabbits usually will defecate in the same place each time in their hutch, so they can be litter box trained.  Rabbits don't normally respond to their names, but many owners state they will come when called.  Bunnies do seem to enjoy human interaction so make sure to get your rabbit out and play with it at least 30 minutes a day.  The more a young rabbit is handled the less likely they are to nip and be timid of people.  Rabbits can grow very long claws that can become quite sharp and need to be trimmed from time to time--declawing is never recommended in rabbits.  Rabbits seem to get along well with most dogs--assuming the dog doesn't regard the rabbit as a prey item to be hunted.  However, cats or ferrets with rabbits does not usually work out.  Multiple rabbit households should have the rabbits housed separately due to territory disputes resulting in fighting and/or likelihood of getting baby bunnies if males and females aren't fixed (see below).
     Rabbits should be closely monitored when out of their hutch to prevent them from getting into mischief.  Rabbits can gnaw on nearly anything and many rabbits have been electrocuted chewing on power cords.  Likewise, male rabbits will sometimes mark their territory by defecating around the house; neutering may help with this.

Rabbit Vaccines and Health Care: There are currently no approved vaccines available for rabbits.  Even though rabbits are potentially susceptible to rabies, as is any other mammal (though they are more resistant than dogs or cats), there is no current vaccine for them.  However, annual examinations of your rabbit is still recommended.  Likewise, medical care for rabbits has greatly improved and such diagnostic tools such as radiographs, blood work, and even ECG's are routinely used in determining your rabbit's health.  We recommend your first exam on a new bunny be around 8-12 weeks of age.

Rabbit Surgeries: Male and female rabbits, known as Bucks and Does respectively, can and should be neutered much like dogs and cats.  Bucks can become very territorial and show signs of aggression as they become more sexually mature--usually around 4-6 months.  Because of this, as well as territorial "marking" (urinating around the house purposely) many owners opt to have the buck neutered.  Due to their sensitivity to injectible anesthetics, we at Gladstone Animal Clinic only use gas anesthesia (Isoflurane) in rabbits.
     It is also recommended that does are spayed when sexually mature (also 4-6 months).  Does are similar to cats as far as being induced ovulators, and have no true heat cycle; rabbits are receptive to breeding many times throughout the year.  Does, like bucks, also have territorial changes when older if not spayed.  In fact, intact does can even be more aggressive than the bucks.  Uterine cancer is the most common cancer seen in rabbits over 4 years of age and has been noted to occur in 50-80% of intact rabbits.  Aggression changes and risk of cancer are strong reasons many owners get their rabbits spayed.  Spaying and neutering of rabbits is routinely performed at Gladstone Animal Clinic.
     The only other common surgery that some people discuss is declawing.  We at Gladstone Animal Clinic agree with the House Rabbit Society's standing of never recommending declawing a rabbit.  Unlike cats, rabbits do not recover well from the stress and pain of surgery.  A rabbit's nails will get long with time, but they are actually quite easy to trim with nail trimmers much like a dog's.  We can trim your rabbit's nails and are happy to show you how as well.

Rabbit Health Issues: Rabbits can suffer from the same basic problems other mammals can: liver, kidney, heart, skin problems, cancer, etc.   However, because rabbits in the wild are preyed upon by almost every other animal, as a protective mechanism rabbits rarely show any sign of weakness or illness.  When a rabbit does begin to appear ill it usually has been sick for awhile.  Therefore, rabbit health problems when detected should not be taken lightly and should be seen by a veterinarian with little delay.  Some of the more common rabbit problems to look for are listed in part below.
   Parasites: Rabbits can suffer from internal parasites (such as coccidia), as well as external parasites.  Ear mites are not unusual to find in young rabbits.  Fleas are a common problem in rabbits; however never try to treat fleas on rabbits yourself.  Rabbits are very sensitive to topical products and should only be used with advice from a veterinarian.  Contact us at Gladstone Animal Clinic for information on what can be used against fleas.
   Digestive Problems: A rabbit's unique intestinal tract can routinely lead to digestive problems.  Diarrhea is a common problem seen in rabbits and can become quite serious due to its dehydrating effects.  Coccidia, an intestinal protozoal parasite, as well as bacterial infection and overgrowth of normal intestinal flora can cause diarrhea.  Keep in mind that a rabbit's stool should resemble firm, mostly dry pellets and not overly mucousy or watery (do not get the mucous-like "night feces" confused with diarrhea as discussed above).  Likewise, weight loss or blood associated with diarrhea should be treated immediately.
   Another common digestive problem of rabbits is hairballs also known as trichobezoars.  Rabbits are incapable of vomiting but groom themselves much like cats.  Large hairballs can accumulate within the stomach and cause potentially life-threatening blockages leading to anorexia and weight loss.  Surgery is sometimes necessary to remove the hairball.  Pineapple juice has been reported to possibly help in dissolving or preventing the hairball formation, but this has not been clinically proven to be helpful.  Brushing your rabbit routinely can help decrease this risk as can a diet with plenty of fiber in it.
   Respiratory Problems: This is probably the most common rabbit malady.  Pastuerella, known as "Snuffles", is a catch-all phrase for upper respiratory disease in rabbits often caused by the Pasteurella bacteria.  Symptoms included watery eyes, sneezing, nasal discharge, matting at the mouth and paws.  Rabbits breathe through their nose, so open-mouth breathing will be seen in serious cases.  Clinical signs such as these should be brought to your vet's attention.  "Snuffles" can develop into pneumonia and be quite devastating as well as chronic requiring long-term therapy with antibiotics and nebulization.
   Urinary Problems: Rabbits can also develop bladder stones and commonly can get a "sandy urine".  This is normally due to high calcium based diets (such as too much hay).  Likewise, many rabbits will develop a reddish tinge to their urine.  This is often the result of pigments in foods they are eating (such as vegetables and fruits) and shouldn't be confused with actual blood in the urine.
   Dental Problems: Finally, tooth problems can be a big issue in rabbits.  Rabbits that aren't eating well, or are suffering from a constantly wet chin due to excessive drooling (known as "slobbers") may have dental disease.  Rabbits must gnaw constantly because of their continuously growing teeth.  If not worn down properly these teeth can develop malocclusions (not matching up to each other) and need trimmed.  Often times the back molars can develop spurs on them that prevent the sideways chewing motion of rabbits; this is treated by anesthetizing the rabbit and filing down the spurs to allow for proper chewing of food.  Any time your rabbit suddenly stops wanting to eat or eats only easy to eat foods, dental problems should be considered.

Rabbit Last Notes: Rabbits can make fun, enjoyable pets that are entertaining to watch and play with.  They aren't overly affectionate but do seem to enjoy interaction.  It is important to know what you are getting into before purchasing a rabbit: they have many special needs when it comes to their diet, and short cuts can't be made (i.e. low quality feeds).  Rabbits also require strict supervision when loose in a room.  Some people do have severe allergies to rabbit fur and dander so it is important to expose yourself to rabbits for a period of time before adopting one.  Finally, as with all pets, make sure you have annual checkups with your vet to ensure your rabbitt is as healthy as it can be so it can be with you a long time.